How to sew a pencil skirt?Difficult it?Not complicated tailoring usual straight skirt, the more that pattern pencil skirt is constructed based on the basic pattern straight skirt.With a light hand the genius of Christian Dior in the 40s of the last century there was a pencil skirt in the wardrobe of fashionistas, becoming the same thing as the cult pumps and legendary little black dress inimitable Coco.Today, this versatile style is popular as ever, so if your wardrobe he is not, it's time to go to a boutique and atelier.Or maybe try to do on their own?
Queen skirts without paper patterns ↑
How to sew a skirt pencil ↑
Step one: Pattern straight double-seam skirt ↑
to build a pattern of classic pencil skirtFirst of all, we will construct a pattern u
- Pot - waist measurement poloubhvata;
- UE - measure putting thighs;
- Ac - length skirt from behind;
- DP - length skirt in front of the median line;
- Du - the length of the skirt from the waist side;
- DST - length back to the waist.
Do not forget about a raise for free customized fit:
- Pb (gain on the hips) = 2 cm;
- Fri (gain on the waistline) = 1 cm.
Stages build double-seam pattern straight skirt
1. Rear panel
In the upper left corner of the sheet T and dottingWe hold of it straight vertical line.
- Underline skirt
the center line from the point T postpone segment, which should be equal measure Ac - length skirt from the waist from behind.Dots N: TN = ... cm. Now H-point draw a horizontal line to the right.
- Line thighs
from the designated point of contact T is plotted along the centerline of the rear section of the cloth, which is equal to 1/2 of the DST measurements - length of the back to the waist line minus one centimeter.Put the point B. Thus TB = DST / 2 -1 cm = ... cm. In the construction of patterns, usually away from the hips to the waist for all sizes shall be equal to 8-20 centimeters.From point B draw a horizontal line to the right.
2. The front panel
- line mid
BB1 = UE + Pb = ... cm.
from the designated point B is plotted along the length of the hips that measure putting thighs attain to the level with the addition of the free fit.Dotting B1.And now through the point B1 hold vertical line, the intersection with the line of the bottom of the letter H1.Top vertically from the point H1 postpone equal measure length forehand cut and dotting T1.
- line side sections
BB2 = (UE + Pb) / 2 = -1 cm ... see.
from the designated point B is plotted on the hips stretch that half attain to the level measurements UE - putting thighs and allowances for free customized fitminus1 centimeter.Dotting B2.Now, from the point B2 hold vertical line to the intersection point of the bottom line H2.Top of the point of H2 postpone length skirts and put a point T2.
3. front and rear cloth
Combining ruler line T, T2 and T1 get waistline.
on the pattern of the classical double-seam skirt usually do three darts.The sum of all solutions tucks on the skirt width Rm is equal to the difference between the skirt at the waist and the width of the hips: Rm = (UE + Pb) - (notes + Fr) = ... cm.
- Side tuck
TT2 = t1T2= 1/2 * Rm / 2 = ... cm.
solution side dart is half Rm.Left and right of the point T2 postpone half of the solution and put the point T and T1, connecting them to the point B2.Divide the resulting segments in half and tuck into the points division put perpendiculars, and lay them on 0,5-1 centimeters.The recess should be above the hips 1-2 centimeters.Smooth curve connecting the points t and T1 with the point located at 1-2 cm above the hips.
- back tuck
Tm2 = UE / 4 -2 cm = ... cm.
the right of the point T is plotted along the length of the waist line, which equals 1/4 of UE measurements - putting thighs minus2 centimeters.Dotting m2.Wire from point t2 to the hips vertical straight line.Right and left of the point t2 postpone the solution of half tuck.Groove must be higher than the hips of 3-4 cm. Concave curve connect marked on the waist point to point 3-4 centimeters.
- Front tuck
T1t3 UE = / = 4 cm -1 ... see.
solution front tuck equals 1/6 Rm.Left from the point T1 to postpone the waist segment, which attain to the level 1/4 UE measurements - putting thighs minus1 centimeter.Dotting T3.We draw from the point T3 to the hips vertical line.Left and right of the point T3 postpone the solution of half tuck.The recess should be above the hips 6-8 centimeters.On the line marked connect to the waist point to the point of 6-8 centimeters.
5. The side sections
Through a bottom width of the rear of the cloth in a straight skirt attain to the level width of the hips, extended - 2-6 centimeters longer.On the line connecting the points B2 and H3.
width of the front of the cloth in a straight line at the bottom of the skirt attain to the level width of the hips, extended - 3-4 centimeters longer.On the line connecting the points B2 and H4.
Step Two: Pattern pencil skirt ↑
Pattern straight skirt ready.Now, taking it as a basis, we will build a pattern pencil skirt.Process simulation of the classic "pencil" is largely confined to a narrowing of the line side seam construction and slots on the rear panel for freedom of movement.
Through deposited in the bottom sides of the side seam necessary amount restriction, which, depending on the length of the skirt, the kind of fabric processing technology and the desired result, will be from 1 to 2 centimeters.On the bottom line is now conducting line to a point at the intersection of 7-9 centimeters below the hips to the side seam line.Because the bottom line to the sideline should be approached at right angles, adjust it with the patterns and the triangle.
front panel skirt in the other parameters remain unchanged.
Modification rear cloth depends on how the rear section design.The easiest way, without changing the rear panel straight skirts, besides the side narrowing, simply tuck the edges of the incision and into the process, to get a V-neck upside down.
But it is better in the rear section of the slot issue, and for that we will need to modify the pattern of the cloth back.For additional slots needed pripusk8 centimeters.To add a stock, the rear panel will have to cut out the two halves, and then connect the rear seam.
on the right side of the rear of the cloth allowance folded in half to form a slot shirinoy4 see. Allowance on the slot on the left half of the cloth just buckled inward and process.
After building a pattern to cut out parts of the skirt fabric, while not forgetting the allowances 1.5-3 centimeters to the rear and side seams, 4-6 centimeters for the bottom hem, 4-6 centimeters to the left (length 16-20 cm)fastener insertion.
details are processed from top to bottom.First, baste darts, tack to the upper edge of the belt or waistband elastic tape, and then try on a skirt, and finally determined with the value of the lateral constrictions.
If satisfied, darts grind, grind and overcast side edges of the skirt, the zipper handle, slice the top and slots.Bottom filed in the last turn.Then otutyuzhivaem skirt and sew the loop.Congratulations!Now in your wardrobe has extremely feminine and elegant pencil skirt, sewn right on the figure!
Pattern pencil skirt with side seams ↑
In the first case, given the cut under the slot, our pencil skirt had three stitches - one rear and two side, but it is possible to manage and one vertical rear seam.Stitches on the sides will be, but only to the level of 8-10 centimeters below the hips.Similarly to the first embodiment for the construction of the pattern of the pencil skirt as a basis for taking a straight double-seam pattern skirt.Constructing paper pattern back and front of the skirt, neatly cut off a part from each other and make duplicates.When transferring the pattern onto the fabric add up the details as follows:
«Fashion tips" about the popular skirt ↑
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